Specialty uses & recipes for Washing Soda
Super Washing Soda is not recommended for use on no-wax floors and aluminum surfaces as it may cause discoloration. Do not use on fiberglass sinks, tubs or tile. Do not use Super Washing Soda for blocked drains. Use Rubber Gloves As with any other household cleaning product, the use of rubber gloves is highly recommended when using Super Washing Soda.
Regular Wash: For regular wash, add 1/2 cup of Super Washing Soda along with the usual amount of either liquid or powder detergent at the beginning of the wash cycle. (Always follow machine instructions when adding laundry products.) Add clothes and let washer fill completely.
Large, Heavily Soiled Wash: For large, heavily soiled wash loads use 1 full cup of Super Washing Soda along with the usual amount of either liquid or powder detergent at the beginning of the wash cycle. (Always follow machine instructions when adding laundry products.) Add clothes and let washer fill completely.
Hard Water: For hard water conditions, add 1 cup of Super Washing Soda along with the usual amount of either liquid or powder detergent at the beginning of the wash cycle.
Tough Stains: Super Washing Soda adds extra cleaning and freshening power to your detergent. Stains and greasy soils sometimes need special handling. Often a routine machine wash will just not be enough to remedy stubborn problems. The most effective way to remove stains is to begin treatment as soon as possible. Although some stains may be impossible to remove, a pre-treatment or pre-soak with Super Washing Soda is often very helpful; especially for removing greasy stains and embedded dirt from synthetics and cottons.
To Pre-treat: Make a paste of 4 tablespoons Super Washing Soda and 1/2 cup warm water. Using rubber gloves, gently rub paste into dampened stain and wash as usual. When laundering, add 1/2 cup of Super Washing Soda in addition to your usual detergent. Always test a small, hidden area of fabric to determine colorfastness before pre-treating.
To Pre-soak: Pre-soak laundry in warm water (use cool water for non-colorfast items as well as for blood and egg stains). Use 2 tablespoons of Super Washing Soda per gallon of warm water if pre-soaking in a small tub, or use 1/2 cup if pre-soaking in a filled washing machine. Pre-soak for at least 30 minutes before washing. Wash with 1/2 cup of Super Washing Soda in the wash cycle, in addition to your usual detergent.
In the Bathroom -
Super Washing Soda is the complete bathroom cleaner that leaves surfaces clean and fresh smelling. As a natural water softener, Super Washing Soda helps to dissolve hard water soap scum where you need it.
Toilet Bowls, Tile, Sinks and Tubs To clean large areas, dissolve 1/2 cup Super Washing Soda in a gallon of warm water. Scrub area thoroughly and rinse well. Do not use on fiberglass sinks, tubs or tile.
In the Kitchen -
Super Washing Soda can dissolve grease and dirt throughout the kitchen. Ovens, Range
Tops, Broiler Pans Ease these messy jobs with a solution of 1/2 cup Super Washing Soda dissolved in a gallon of warm water. For stubborn, crusted soils, sprinkle Super Washing Soda dry on a damp sponge to scour quickly and easily. Remove burners and soak in solution for at least 30 minutes to banish greasy build-up. Rinse well and dry.
Range Hoods, Exhaust Fans A weekly wash with a solution of 1/2 cup Super Washing Soda dissolved in a gallon of warm water keeps range hoods and exhaust fans grease-free. Rinse well afterwards.
To remove greasy, burned-on stains from cookware, try the method that works best for you. • Sprinkle dry Super Washing Soda on a damp sponge to scour stains. Rinse well. • Or apply a paste of 2 parts Super Washing Soda, 1 part water to stained areas. Let stand for 30 minutes; then wash and rinse as usual. Do not use on aluminum cookware.
Clean and freshen garbage cans, tablecloths, shower curtains and small appliance covers - With a solution of 1/2 cup Super Washing Soda dissolved in a gallon of warm water. Wash surface and rinse. Small Appliances (toasters, electric mixers, food processors) A weekly wipe down with a solution of 1/2 cup Super Washing Soda dissolved in a gallon of warm water will keep your small appliances shining and free of dirt and grease. Do not use on aluminum appliances
Outdoors/Outdoor Furniture When taking your furniture in or out of storage, clean wrought-iron furniture and plastic cushions with a solution of 1/2 cup Super Washing Soda dissolved in a gallon of warm water. For wrought iron, scrub with a stiff-bristled brush, hose off and dry in the sun. For plastic cushions, wipe down with a cloth or a sponge. Outdoor furniture should not be cleaned on wooden decks as Super Washing Soda can remove the finish. Do not use on aluminum outdoor furniture.
Garden Tools - For easy maintenance of saws, hedge trimmers and clippers, scrub with Super Washing Soda on a moist, stiff-bristled brush. Hose off and let dry in the sun. Do not use on aluminum tools.
Barbecue Grills and Utensils - To remove hardened accumulations of grease, scrub with Super Washing Soda sprinkled on a moist, stiff-bristled brush. Or soak items in a solution of 1/2 cup Super Washing Soda dissolved in a gallon of warm water. Rinse and dry. Do not use on aluminum surfaces.
Living Room/ Dining Room/ Bedroom -
Venetian Blinds- Dip a cloth in a solution of 1/2 cup Super Washing Soda dissolved in a gallon of warm water and wipe blinds. Or fill your bathtub with warm water and add 1/2 cup Super Washing Soda. Soak for 15 to 30 minutes. Rinse and dry.
Silver, Copper, Gold Pieces - Super Washing Soda can be used with special cleaning plates such as QWICKSILVER®, SilverLion and Speedy Plate to remove tarnish from silver, silver plate, jewelry, gold, copper, bronze, stainless steel and most brass. Contact your cleaning plate manufacturer for full details.
Garage Floors, Other Concrete Surfaces (basement, patio, workshop, fireplace) - Super Washing Soda cuts through oil and grease spills. Pour Super Washing Soda generously on spills and sprinkle lightly with water until a paste forms. Let stand overnight. The following day, scrub with a damp brush, hose down, and wipe surface clean.
All Purpose Fantastic Cleaner & Disinfectant - Combine the following in a spray bottle: 1 teaspoon Borax, 2 tablespoons vinegar or lemon juice, 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon vegetable oil-based liquid soap, 1/2 teaspoon super washing soda. Add very hot tap water, shaking bottle gently until minerals have dissolved. Scouring Powder (disinfectant, anti-mildew and grease cutter) - Combine 1 cup baking soda, 1/4 cup Borax and 1/4 cup super washing soda. Put in shaker or bowl.
Cleaning Stucco - Ingredients: 2 gallons hot water with a couple squirts dishwashing soap 1/2 to 1 cup washing soda (Arm and Hammer Super Washing Soda) 1/2 to 1 cup borax, Mix together and place in your power washer. • Use caution when using chemicals and read label directions. Make sure you rinse the house down real well afterwards. • To wash the stucco, start at the top with the power washer hose attachment and bring it down. • Keep it wet and keep the water and solution flowing downward. Work it all the way to the ground because if you stop it will restain. • Rinse well making sure not to leave any residue. Leftover residue will attract more dirt. • The biggest safety concern when working with a power sprayer is to not use concentrated jets of water when working with stucco. Use the open jets to flood the side of the house down and run a curtain of water. You can damage the stucco and paint by using the concentrated streams.
Rust Removal using Electrolysis - The following great tip for rust removal was taken directly from a great site operated by Bill Dickerson devoted to the restoration of antique engines. Please visit www.antique-engines.com
for more great tips on engine restoration. Bill has an AA degree in automotive mechanics and has been restoring and repairing vintage and antique engines since about 1971.
“Several years ago, and I can't recall how it happened, I came into an inexpensive and easy way to clean rust and grease, and, in some cases, paint, from your rusty cast iron and sheet metal parts. Taking advantage of common household cleaning products, items many of us have laying around the garage, kitchen or laundry room, and some science, you can clean parts from a single bolt up to an entire trailer frame through a process known as "electrolysis".
What you need: • A non-conducting container - a large plastic bucket works really well. • Battery charger - big is better, however even one able to produce 6 to 10 amps should do. A student recently used my site as the basis for a school project and used a computer power supply in place of battery charger. • Sacrificial electrodes. Concrete reinforcing rod works well (rebar) cut into lengths about 4" taller than your bucket or container. Do not use stainless steel! The results are a health hazard and illegal (more on that later) • Arm and Hammer LAUNDRY soda, also called washing soda. • Wire and/or cables for connecting electrodes together. • Water. • Small lengths of small chain (used to suspend the rusty parts in solution) or some other means to suspend the part to clean into the solution.
The Setup: Using a plastic or non-conductive bucket (not metal), mix a solution of 5 gallons water to 1/3 to 1/2 cup laundry soda. Mix well so all soda is dissolved. Do not try to use other salts. You won't get better results and dangerous effects may occur. Caustic soda, for example, is far too corrosive. Solutions of ordinary table salt can generate chlorine gas (toxic) at the positive electrode (anode). Clean the electrodes so they aren't too rusty - especially at the top ends - they need to make good electrical contact with your wire or cable AND with the water. I take mine to a wire wheel and give them just a real quick going over. Place electrodes in bucket around sides, so the clean, rust free ends stick up above the bucket. Use clamps or some means to hold them in place around the perimeter of the inside of the bucket or container so that they cannot move freely or fall into center of bucket. The electrodes must not touch the part(s) to be cleaned, which will be suspended in center of bucket. I use small C clamps. Whatever you use, it shouldn't be copper, and will get a bit messy if it gets into your cleaning solution. Tie the electrodes together with wire or cables. I use copper wire twisted around the top ends, and have used old jumper cables. All electrodes need to be tied together "electrically". This will become the "anode" grid. Since the cleaning process is somewhat "line of sight" it's best to surround the part to be cleaned to some extent with the electrodes. Suspend part to be cleaned into bucket so it hangs in the middle, not touching bottom, and not touching electrodes. I place a piece of rebar across top of bucket (see photo below) and bolt a small piece of chain to my part to be cleaned, and clamp the chain on the rod so that the chain hangs from the rod, and suspends the part into solution below. The part to clean then becomes the "cathode". Attach battery charger - place NEGATIVE LEAD (this is critical!!) on the piece that is to be cleaned. Attach POSITIVE, or RED lead of charger, to electrode "grid" formed when you placed electrodes, or rods, into bucket and tied them all together. Make sure electrodes and part to be cleaned are not touching each other, then turn on charger. Within seconds, you should see a lot of tiny bubbles rising from the part suspended in the mixture. Do not do this inside, or in a closed area - those bubbles are the component parts of water - H2O - hydrogen and oxygen. Remember the Hindenburg? See how the rust and bubbles are attracted to the electrodes in the photo below? You will need to clean them from time to time - they will get covered with gunk; in fact, after many uses, they will have eroded down and need to be replaced. That is why I use rebar - it's easy to get, cheap, and most of all - SAFE FOR YOU and your environment! You can pour the waste solution on the lawn and it won't hurt it. Do watch out for ornamental shrubs, which may not like iron rich soil, however.